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(17 customer reviews)


The Skiff comes in two versions: small and large. The larger skiff can also be rigged as a bark. Included in the .ZIP file are: the two sizes of skiff, matching removable ‘wakes’ that simulate ship movement, and rigging clips.

To rig this model, check out the general Rigging Guide.

This product is part of the Add-On The Lost Ships. Please log in if you backed the campaign.

This product is delivered as a .ZIP file pack containing STL files for use on a home 3D Printer. The files are set to 28mm scale but can be rescaled before printing.


Fast and mobile, skiffs are frequently deployed for scouting ahead in wartime. Other times, they can be found being used for family day trips.


  • 18 July 18 (version 1.1) Rigging tiles added.
  • 30 July 18 (version 1.2) Ballista added to fittings
  • 9 April 21 (version 2.0) Hull wood grain re-textured to prevent stringing.
  • 15 June 22 (version 2.1) Scale of the Whole version corrected.


  • Right-click on the image below and “Save As” to download the reference sheet for this pack.
  • Mast measurements and rigging parts are located in the gallery image below.
  • Product measurements can be found in the image gallery.


Skiff Hull Reference



Small Printer Reference

Whole Version Reference

Wake Reference




You will need 6mm (1/4 inch) and 4mm (3/16 inch) dowel for the masts and black elastic string for the rope.

Fitting Reference


Additional information




Prints without Supports

Layer Height

.2 for Normal Quality .1 for High Quality (.2 Layer height is recommended)

17 questions for Skiff

  1. Avatar

    Sakura.j.lim (verified owner)

    Silly question im sure but could your team upload a template for sails of each of your boats, or perhaps recommendations in making both set sails and in their folded states?

    Please and thank you.

    • Avatar

      Matt Barker

      The template for sails are a great idea, I have added them to the to-do list

  2. Avatar

    Timothy Reese

    Question, are there any plans to release a ballista version of this as well? And a version with a hatch or door leading into the raised area?

    • Avatar

      Matt Barker

      The Ballistas that are included in the pack should fit through the gun ports

  3. Avatar

    Sbfirekid (verified owner)

    can you give the lingth of both sizes of skiffs

    • Avatar

      Jo Boorer

      Skiff 1 is 201.50mm and Skiff 2 is 265.93mm

  4. Avatar

    joe (verified owner)

    Any plans for a hull that can be fitted with ballista instead of cannons for this model?

    • Avatar

      Matt Barker

      We included Ballistas and resized them so that they can poke through the gunports

  5. Avatar

    joe (verified owner)

    “We included Ballistas and resized them so that they can poke through the gunports”
    I see a cannon model in Skiff but no ballista.

    • Avatar

      Jo Boorer

      Thanks for pointing this out. The Ballista has now been added.

  6. Avatar

    morgannec (verified owner)

    Are you using wooden dowels for the masts? Or are you printing them out as I don’t see them on the items. If so, what is the scales thickness of the masts? Thanks!

    • Sam Campbell

      Sam Campbell

      Yes wooden dowel is best for the mast, these should be 4mm in diameter for the skiff.

  7. Avatar

    ben1 (verified owner)

    I’m having issues with the rigging. So far I’ve printed both the Skiff (larger, 3 part) and the Brig on a small printer, and printed the imperial riggings. I’ve purchased both 1/4 and 3/16 dowels and I’m ready to rig this thing.

    But… It seems the 3/16″ dowels don’t fit into the mast steps on the deck of the skiff. The 3/16 dowels DO fit through rig7A from the Skiff riggings. (And for what it’s worth, the 1/4″ dowels don’t fit into the mast step on the Brig, and the 3/16 fits loosely.)

    Before I just drill out the mast steps on the ships to the proper size– am I doing something wrong?

    • Sam Campbell

      Sam Campbell

      We’ve done all the testing with Metric measurements, so there maybe wiggle room or be tight with considerations due to printing and imperial measurements. Occasionally with hobby things, sanding down the end of the dowel would be the best answer. If things are tight or filling with a little bit of filler.

  8. Avatar

    ben1 (verified owner)

    Thanks, Sam. That’s the best answer; it was a super easy fix. For what it’s worth, your diagrams specifically call out the 3/16 and 1/4 dowels; it might be worth it to mention up front that those sizes will need some sanding to fit. I know it seems obvious but there are so many other issues that could be at play in the files or the printing itself, any peace of mind you can offer up front can save some frustration. I can take those metric dowels out of my Amazon cart now. 🙂

  9. Avatar

    oxen007 (verified owner)

    Can you specify the lengths of the dowels for both the smaller (skiff 1) and larger skiff (skiff 2)? The dimensions listed in the photo don’t specify which skiff they belong to.

    Very nice model!

    Thank you.

    • Sam Campbell

      Sam Campbell

      The rigging diagram is for the smaller skiff.

  10. Avatar

    Ed Holt (verified owner)

    Is there anyway we could get a skiff without the ports? It would make a great fishing boat.

    • Avatar

      Nicholas Jebson

      Hey Ed, I will talk to the guys and see what we can do.

  11. Avatar

    Taylor Dewey (verified owner)

    What’s the intended use for Rig-6? I don’t see it used in the rigging guides for any of the ships.

    • Avatar

      Matt Barker

      Rig-6 can be used to make a padeye. For example; if you wanted a padeye on the stern to attach a mainsheet to the aft boom.

  12. Avatar


    Same as Ed said, a Skiff without gunport’s and a larger unarmed ‘merchant’ style cargo ship would be great!

    • Avatar

      Mike (verified owner)

      Hi SC!

      Thanks for the suggestion! We’ve added it to our list of model updates so when it has been done you’ll receive an email letting you know 🙂

  13. Avatar

    James Stedl (verified owner)

    Above it is stated “Skiff 1 is 201.50mm and Skiff 2 is 265.93mm”
    But In my DL they are 201.50mm and 202.474mm virtually the same. Looks like #2 has more banding but is same size?

    • Avatar

      Mike (verified owner)

      Hi James,

      Good eye for detail! You’re correct in the sizing, the second one is 202.474mm, as they are supposed to be about the same size.

  14. Avatar

    cdlord (verified owner)

    What are the dowel lengths for the larger skiff? Or is adding 25% to the length sufficient? That would make the 5″ mast 6.25″…..

    • Avatar

      Mike (Printable Scenery) (verified owner)

      Hi Cdlord,

      You’ve got it correct, 25% longer length will do nicely for the larger skiff. You can always start longer and trim shorter if you think it looks too long

  15. Avatar

    Henrik Andersen (verified owner)

    The dowel hole for Skiff 1 and skiff 2 seems to be different and smaller on the broadest of the two.
    Is this intentional, and what are the measurements and intent behind the difference?

  16. Avatar

    Henrik Andersen (verified owner)

    Ignore my previous question please.

    I just found out part 1 and 2 off Skiff 2 is much larger than the complete model of skiff 2, why is that?
    How much should I enlarge Skiff 2 to get correct measures for dowels and rigging?

    • Avatar

      Mike (Printable Scenery) (verified owner)

      The different sizes of skiff two are pre-scaled for anyone that wants it larger, however it because of its size it wouldn’t fit on a standard sized buildplate so it was cut in two.
      The larger version is 31% bigger than the complete one, so your dowels and rigging would need to be increased by that much (3mm dowel would become 4mm etc)

      Hope that clears it up

  17. Avatar

    Erik Turner (verified owner)

    OK, I really like these ship models, but…

    Yeah, it’s REALLY frustrating to print the uncut ships from skiff version 2.0 only to find out they are not the correct scale for 28mm minis. You really should put a README file inside all the ship downloads that explains what scale things are and how to adjust them, along with all the correct diagrams. Also, it’s irritating that only one of the two ship variants is cut. I have a resin printer (mega 8k) with a 330×180 mm bed that’s plenty big enough to print the whole ship in one piece at the correct scale, but I only found out it’s the wrong scale after printing it…

    This ship is one of the simpler ones… it should be really easy and have polished instructions as the practice ship for figuring out how to do the masts and rigging and practicing getting the join on the cut pieces to look good.

    I guess these first two I printed will have to become fishing boats with 1/8″ masts. What scale are the rigging and fittings files and the rigging diagrams? I don’t believe they are as said above scaled for the smaller ships, since the holes on the hull #1 fit 1/8th” dowels and hull#2 something even smaller and not standard, so clearly the details aren’t right. The rigging models seem to be scaled for 28mm with roughly 3/8″ holes, but that doesn’t jive with the diagrams saying they are for 1/4″ dowels, and the cannons, ballistas and wheel are all at a much smaller scale that definitely doesn’t look right next to minis. How should they be adjusted? The diagrams should be updated to cover different scales, and it’s frustrating to have the files come in a jumbled mix of different, unlabelled scales. The fittings (and really all the files) really should default to 28mm scale since I presume most people are using these first with regular fantasy minis, and are another reason to put a readme file in the download with scaling instructions. I mean, I have no intention of printing ships in smaller scale for other games, but I guess some people might do that.

    I really do like the models! Just annoyed about printing the thing and then finding out it’s not the right scale and having to do it again after wasting materials and being unsure about what scale they should be for standard minis. Also +1 for versions of the skiff without gunports. Also, since resin printers are easy and cheap these days, you really should redo the wheel as a pre-supported resin print instead of a flat on the bed design. That way the spokes can actually be round….

    • Avatar

      Matt Barker

      Hi Erik, I will have a check through all the ships and check the size of the mast steps. also a good idea about putting the info in the readme

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