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Painting Guide: The Temple of the Damned

Below is a painting guide, explaining the steps taken to paint The Temple of the Damned.

The model was initially primed with matt black primer.

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Fully-painted Temple of the Damned

 

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The skulls and bone edging can be clearly seen here. Layers of dry-brushing, washing, and a highlight give extra depth to the detail, while adding a feeling of age.

Bone

This is the scheme used for the skulls, bone edging and teeth on the roof.

  1. Heavy dry-brush: Army Painter Leather Brown.
  2. Lighter dry-brush: Army Painter Barbarian Flesh.
  3. Wash: Army Painter Sepia Shade (Let that dry and settle. For the roof, this was only applied to the base of the teeth).
  4. Final highlight: Army Painter Skeleton Bone.
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Sepia, steel and rust tones mix together to give a feeling of age and corrosion.

Rusted Iron

This is the scheme used on the steps, arches, chains and roof supports.

  1. Full layer: Games Workshop Typhus Corrosion.
  2. Heavy dry-brush: Games Workshop Ryza Rust.
  3. Lighter dry-brush: Army Painter Gun Metal.
  4. Wash: Army Painter Sepia Shade (applied to crevasses and other parts to give age and more depth to the rust).
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Dry-brushing grey allows the back primer to create shadow effects between the stones, and give a more realistic brick texture.

Stonework

This is the scheme used for the bricks and stone statues.

  1. Heavy dry-brush: Army Painter Dungeon Grey.
  2. Lighter dry-brush Army Painter Ash Grey.
  3. Wash: Army Painter Sepia Shade (applied to bases of the columns and to the edges where the bricks meet the iron edging).
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Technical paints allow extra texture and effects to be added without a huge amount of effort.

Roof Flesh

This is the scheme used to give a fleshy look to the roof.

  1. Full layer: Army painter Dragon Red.
  2. Light dry-brush or highlight: Army Painter Barbarian Flesh.
  3. Technical/specialty paint layer: Games Workshop Blood for the Blood God (this paint tends to coagulate quite nicely, so thicker layers are better – it needs to be left to settle and dry).
  4. Wash: Army Painter Sepia Shade (to give this a decayed effect where the teeth meet the flesh).

 

Additional notes

Army Painter Sepia Shade was used to tie in the transitions between different areas.

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