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Dwarven Airship


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The Dwarven Airship is a fantasy-themed flying ship, designed for use in tabletop and role-playing games.

Included in the .ZIP file are: separate deck layouts, cannons, hinged doors and a mounting stand. The separate decks can be used to simulate movement within the ship. Included is a version for small printers.

This product is part of the Full Regional License to Print (Monthly Payments) or ADD-ON Dwarves. Please log in if you backed the campaign.

This product is delivered as a .ZIP file pack containing STL files for use on a home 3D Printer. The files are set to 28mm scale but can be rescaled before printing.


Packing as much firepower as a dragon, the dwarves of Ironhelm control the skies from the decks of their mighty dirigibles. Elf, demon and human alike scatter before them, unwilling to face the flanks of cannons, or indeed the massive mounted gun at the front. Sturdily constructed from the heaviest of wood and canvas, few weapons can bring a dwarf ship down.


  • 24 April 2018 (version 1.1) Updated keel for better print results on “DwarvenAirship-Pt2-v1.1.stl”
  • 15 May 2019 (version 1.2) Supports have been updated with guide holes.
  • 20 June 2019 (version 1.3) Single Right Propellor and Dwarven-airship-cannons added.
  • 3 September 2021 (version 1.4) Hollow Balloon version added and small printer cut of the stand.


  • Reference sheet for small printer option is included in the zip file.
  • Right-click on the image below and “Save As” to download the reference sheet for this pack.
  • Product measurements can be found in the image gallery.

Additional information



Layer Height

.2 for Normal Quality .1 for High Quality (.2 Layer height is recommended)


Requires supports on some files

15 questions for Dwarven Airship

  1. cmb.efm (verified owner)

    Is there any chance to get the Balloon for the airship hollowed it out, to save on some plastic?

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      A great suggestion, I’ll add it to our suggestion list for future development.

  2. joelconfino (verified owner)

    So amazing! Love this model. Question re: supports: looks like most of the parts will print fine without supports. Any recommendations on what parts likely need supports?

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      The rudders on the engines may need supports.

  3. elmortero (verified owner)

    FYI, if anyone is struggling with the propellor blades, I ended up turning on supports, flipping them upside down from their original orientation, and printing on a raft. I also second hollowing out the balloon. It is a bit top heavy.

  4. me_jagro (verified owner)

    It is indeed a bit top heavy.
    Put copper electricity wire in the “pillars”. They snapped very easy.

  5. redbjork (verified owner)

    I am almost done with printing this model.

    A couple of things, as elmortero wrote, the propeller is difficult to print will try his suggestion.

    The model is very top-heavy and I am having difficulties modifying the support STL files to print with a 1.5mm hole in the center so I can add a metal core. Is it possible to get the mesh files for the support columns so for those who want can add metal support in the middle?

    I also second making the balloon model not filled as it will make the model top heavy.

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      We will add it to suggestions for further development. Another suggestion is to print the Baloon at 5% infill.

  6. Cody McClurg (verified owner)

    So I have a question regarding 1 part that I don’t see where it fits in. It’s the Dwarven_Airship_cannon piece.

    Unlike the dwarvenairship_cannon which has pt1 and pt2, I don’t see where this piece fits on the model, and I don’t see it in the picture.

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      These are designed to fit in the portholes along the side.

  7. xendragon


    Does anyone know what the print time for this is?

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      Depending on your printer 4-6 days.

  8. bennymclennan (verified owner)

    any chance we are gonna get an expanded range of airships? D&D new Eberron setting got me hankering for more than we have available already!

    • Sam Campbell (verified owner)

      There is always a chance, in the last 3 Kickstarters we’ve released 5 Airships. They are always a lot of fun to design and build.

  9. bennymclennan (verified owner)

    Thanks, Sam! I just glance at the new Eberron campaign setting and I want a massive amount of new toys to print.. haha

  10. yukon_big_dave (verified owner)

    A new way to hollow out the balloon is in the slicer software. I’m using the Prusa Slicer and with it I can add a modifier shape like a sphere, center it in the balloon segment and tweak it’s size. You then change the settings for the sphere to 0% infill and 0 Top, Bottom and perimeter layers. The estimated saving in weight is about 40% from 250 to 150 gm.

  11. frasc


    I was wondering how much resin does this take to print?

    And if it could be printed on a photon S printer?

    • Nicholas Jebson

      It is about 1 1/2 kilos of filament, so it would be heavier as a solid piece or a little lighter than that if hollowed. However no, the small printer cuts for the balloon are 76mm at its shortest axis, where Photon S only has 65mm on its shortest axis.

  12. lior.shapira (verified owner)

    This model would benefit from some more instructions. I’m not sure how to get the balloon stabilized over the ship. Do I glue the supporting columns to the balloon itself? If so, then is it supposed to lodge sturdily enough into the ship’s deck to hold stable?

    If I’m supposed to glue everything (top and bottom) then it also seems weird, won’t that hamper gameplay?

    Please advise, thanks!

    • Mike

      Hi Lior,
      Your best bet is to glue it all together. It has filament guide holes that ensure the pieces align correctly and add extra strength once assembled.
      Doing a quick measurement once all glued together you have approx 70mm between the balloon and the deck will most minis (and most hands!) will fit under so shouldn’t hamper gameplay.

      Hope that helps!

  13. lior.shapira (verified owner)

    Follow up to my last question: It seems like the design of the ship’s cabin is for it to be removable, so you could have a scene/battle moving between the open deck and the cabin. But if I glue the Balloon on top of the ship, I necessarily have to bolt down the cabin and then it’s not an option. I just wonder why not make the slots on the ship itself way deeper and then you could put the balloon on and off without glueing it in place.

    • Mike

      Hi Lior,

      If you would prefer to have the cabin removable you can glue to roof of it to the balloon supports and remove them altogether as one piece. Another solution would be to magnetize the pieces which is relatively easy to do.
      We will look at making the slots deeper as per your suggestion.

  14. seitoheiwa (verified owner)

    Question to the airship and the steam ironclad:
    Are there any plans on adding a playable interior?

    • Mike (Printable Scenery)

      Hi Seitoheiwa,

      There currently arent any plans to but I’ll add your suggestion to our list of potential model updates for the future

  15. Michael Riecken (verified owner)

    For me, the alignment holes were too small – both in terms of depth and diameter. This might be an artefact of printing and not a problem with the model.

    I took a 2mm drill bit and drilled out the holes wider and deeper and that allowed the 1.75mm resin to fit well enough. Make sure that you sand off the hole if any material came out of the hole that would prevent pieces from fitting together snugly.

    I added a drop of super flue to the end of a 2cm length of filament and then put the glued end in a hole, repeating for all four holds on on end of one segment of the model. Once the glue set, I cut the filament down to about 5mm. I tried longer lengths, but it was harder with the long lengths to assemble.

    With the filament in place, the model fit together piece by piece with little effort. A small knife sometimes helped getting things alined.

    Once the piece was dry fitted, I used a knife to pry the pieces apart a 2-3mm and put some super glue in the gap, continuing around the circumference of one junction.


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