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Resin Printing, Cost, Tips and a getting started guide

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    • #227657
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      Originally I was browsing this forum (and others) to try and find tips and tricks to printing terrain with resin; but instead I encountered a lot of confusion and misinformation. I am _far_ from an expert in resin printing, but I thought I would prepare a document that outlines what the costs are (with actual numbers), what pitfalls to avoid, and what to do to get the best prints (with pictures). This document is specific to Printable Scenery terrain; but should be more-or-less generically applicable.

      This is a living document and I hope to add to it and update it as things change or as I find better ways to get the most out of resin printing this terrain. Without further ado, here is the document:
      https://docs.google.com/document/d/13dN7Gjc9mBTya5slTDBOO0V97xTJ6k0HheaDTQcK61Q/view

      If you have any suggestions or things you would like added or clarified, feel free to comment here; but please be constructive. Keep in mind that this is a learning experience for me as much as it is me helping those that might be starting the path of resin printing.

    • #228010
      AvatarNicholas Jebson
      Keymaster

      Man, this is an amazing comparison and how-to Leto, thank you. I am just awaiting my first resin printer (Phrozon sonic mini) so this is going to be invaluable to me.

    • #228137
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      I am glad that you find it useful! I am trying to make resin printing less of a mystery and at the same time gather feedback and tips from other users.

      Keep in mind that the Phrozon Sonic Mini has a slightly smaller build area than your common MSLA printer so there might be some larger items (like the QC or G walls) that won’t fit or will require different positioning.

    • #228178
      AvatarNicholas Jebson
      Keymaster

      I know, mostly i will be printing D&D miniatures on it, with maybe some of the higher detailed tiles like the shop fronts.

    • #228187
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      That was my original use case for my resin printer too, but the first time I held a E_TRP_Stone_Floor printed on an FDM in one hand, and one printed on a resin printer in the other, I knew I could never print them on FDM again. So I set out to figure out what the actual cost is, and what the best settings are to get the most out of it.

    • #228364
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      A lot of the information in the document will need to be updated when the resin slicers eventually support infill. Chitubox is one of the few that already supports this but you can’t make drain holes when you hollow with infill (which makes infill 100% useless).

    • #228405
      AvatarNicholas Jebson
      Keymaster

      which slicer do you recommend for a starter resin set?

    • #228407
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      You don’t really have a choice for slicers. Typically a resin printer has its own custom slicer (like Prusa), or they have worked with Chitubox to add support for their printer to that slicer. With the Phrozen Sonic Mini its the latter case, you will use Chitubox (as most resin printers do).

      Unfortunately Chitubox is not the best slicer, or even comparable. Its buggy, it crashes a lot, and the support generation is sub-par (requiring a lot of manual intervention).

      Fortunately there is a solution to (most) of those issues and that is to use Prusa Slicer. Pretend you have an SL1. Position your model, hollow it, drill holes, and generate supports. From there you can “Export the plate as STL including supports” and then load that STL into Chitubox and just slice it. I would change the Pad Wall Slope setting in PrusaSlicer from 90 to 45 though, this will make removing your prints 10x easier.

    • #228591
      AvatarNicholas Jebson
      Keymaster

      Wow, thanks Leto. I’m looking forward to this, I will start small with the miniatures and work my way up to the dungeons!

    • #230277
      AvatarWilliam Oakley
      Participant

      Thanks for this! I couldn’t figure out why pieces were warping at the bottom.
      Here is a new issue I’m seeing. I’m using an elegoo Mars, I hollowed out the wall segments as instructed, added a drainage hole, double checked supports, but after curing, every single piece has cracked along the bottom.

      Curing too long?

    • #230281
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      One of the purposes of this document (and this topic) is to have a good place for trouble shooting and knowledge gathering. I would love to help you figureout why your parts are splitting. If you could upload photos (and potentially email me your saved Chitubox project file, exactly as you have it, supports and all) I can do my best to help.

      I will say that 100% of the time I have had cracking it has exclusively been because of the lack of drainage. Usually tiny little pockets that Chitubox hollows when it shouldn’t. I have cured the walls and floors for up to 8 hours in front of a UV lamp (I forget its curing sometimes….); and while they did yellow quite a bit, they never once cracked.

    • #230284
      AvatarWilliam Oakley
      Participant

      Much appreciated! What’s the best email address and I’ll get those over.

      • #230286
        AvatarLeto Atreides
        Participant

        In an effort to avoid scraping utilities: Look at my profile name (click on my profile, the part after the @) and add @gmail.com.

    • #230287
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      Ok, I think I see the problem. This is something you have to watch out for, even more so with Chitubox.

      In this model when you hollow it out, there are actually small pockets that hollow out that are not connected to the main section, this means that they are closed sections.

      The most important ones are on the bottom (see Hollow1 and Hollow3). You can solve these by putting some horizontal holes (see Hollow2).

      Unfortunately there are also some very tiny pockets that you can’t really drain (because you can’t really poke a hole there). (see Hollow4). For this I would try hollowing in PrusaSlicer instead, since it will try and not hollow out these tiny spaces.

      If there are _any_ closed sections that are hollowed out, those sections cannot drain and the resin that gets trapped in them will eventually cause enough pressure to bust open any print.

    • #268211
      Avatarjvarela098
      Participant

      Lychee Slicer will change your life. It can support slicing files for tons of printers natively without having to export as stl and slice using a different program. The versatility of adding and editing supports is really helpful at not only supporting every island or overhang but also fine tuning how many supports you are actually placing to save resin.

      Also, if you need any data or screenshots from larger build volumes (e.g. Saturn, Sonic 4k Mighty, Mono X, Epax E10) I have an E10 and wouldn’t mind contributing.

      These are all the printers Lychee Slicer supports:
      Anycubic Photon
      Anycubic Photon S
      Anycubic Photon Zero
      Anycubic Photon Mono
      Anycubic Photon Mono SE
      Anycubic Photon Mono X
      Anycubic Photon X
      Creality LD-002R
      Creality LD-002H (*)
      Creality LD 006 (*)
      EPAX E10 4K Mono
      EPAX E6
      EPAX X1
      EPAX X1-DJ/K/N
      EPAX X9
      EPAX X10
      EPAX X10 4K Mono
      EPAX X133
      EPAX X133 4K
      EPAX X156 4K
      Elegoo Mars
      Elegoo Mars 2 (*)
      Elegoo Mars C
      Elegoo Mars Pro
      Elegoo Mars 2 Pro (*)
      Elegoo Saturn (*)
      Hardlight Sirius 2K
      Hardlight Sirius XL
      iSun 3D LCD3.0
      JGAURORA G3
      Kelant Orbeat D100
      Kelant Orbeat D200
      Kelant Orbeat D200S
      Kelant Orbeat S400
      Kelant Orbeat S400s
      Kelant S500
      Longer Orange 10
      Longer Orange 30
      Mango Board (*)
      Mang’OS (*)
      MKS board
      Monoprice Mini
      Nova 3D Elfin
      Nova 3D Elfin2
      Nova 3D Elfin2 Mono SE (**)
      Nova 3D Bene4
      Nova 3D Bene4 Mono (**)
      Peopoly Phenom
      Peopoly Phenom Noir
      Peopoly Phenom L
      Phrozen Shuffle
      Phrozen Shuffle 4k
      Phrozen Shuffle Lite
      Phrozen Shuffle XL
      Phrozen Shuffle XL Lite
      Phrozen Sonic Mini
      Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K (*)
      Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K (*)
      Phrozen Sonic
      Phrozen Sonic 4K (*)
      Phrozen Sonic XL 4K
      Phrozen Transform
      Prusa SL1
      QIDI Shadow 5.5s
      QIDI Shadow 6.0 Pro
      QIDI S-box
      SainSmart Kumitsu KL9
      SparkMaker
      SparkMakerFHD
      Stek X-Cube Plus
      Tianfour T215
      TianFour T280
      Tronxy Ultrabot
      Voxelab Proxima
      Wanhao D7 (**)
      Wanhao D8
      Wanhao Gadoso GR1
      YDM 1S
      * 3D printer compatible with variable layer height, transition layers.
      ** 3D printer compatible with variable layer height, transition layers, over-cured layer, and all advanced functions of the slicer.

    • #268252
      AvatarLeto Atreides
      Participant

      Lychee Slicer is a pretty good slicer (if somewhat slow); however its always-online-phone-home and subscription service put it firmly in the “I’ll pass” category. Thankfully the more recent versions of Chitubox (1.8.1) have solved many of its problems (and as far as I can tell, its stability issues), though its still not that great at hollowing compared to Prusa.

      I do have a larger build plate printer that I can run tests on; that being said I would love to have others contribute to this document.

      I am learning as I go, and new slicer features can make some of the tips/tricks obsolete. If you have anything you would like to add or correct, please feel free to do so.

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