August 9, 2020 at 5:37 am #227657
Originally I was browsing this forum (and others) to try and find tips and tricks to printing terrain with resin; but instead I encountered a lot of confusion and misinformation. I am _far_ from an expert in resin printing, but I thought I would prepare a document that outlines what the costs are (with actual numbers), what pitfalls to avoid, and what to do to get the best prints (with pictures). This document is specific to Printable Scenery terrain; but should be more-or-less generically applicable.
This is a living document and I hope to add to it and update it as things change or as I find better ways to get the most out of resin printing this terrain. Without further ado, here is the document:
If you have any suggestions or things you would like added or clarified, feel free to comment here; but please be constructive. Keep in mind that this is a learning experience for me as much as it is me helping those that might be starting the path of resin printing.
August 11, 2020 at 9:02 am #228010
Man, this is an amazing comparison and how-to Leto, thank you. I am just awaiting my first resin printer (Phrozon sonic mini) so this is going to be invaluable to me.
August 12, 2020 at 2:16 am #228137
I am glad that you find it useful! I am trying to make resin printing less of a mystery and at the same time gather feedback and tips from other users.
Keep in mind that the Phrozon Sonic Mini has a slightly smaller build area than your common MSLA printer so there might be some larger items (like the QC or G walls) that won’t fit or will require different positioning.
August 12, 2020 at 9:08 am #228178
I know, mostly i will be printing D&D miniatures on it, with maybe some of the higher detailed tiles like the shop fronts.
August 12, 2020 at 9:26 am #228187
That was my original use case for my resin printer too, but the first time I held a E_TRP_Stone_Floor printed on an FDM in one hand, and one printed on a resin printer in the other, I knew I could never print them on FDM again. So I set out to figure out what the actual cost is, and what the best settings are to get the most out of it.
August 13, 2020 at 2:58 am #228364
A lot of the information in the document will need to be updated when the resin slicers eventually support infill. Chitubox is one of the few that already supports this but you can’t make drain holes when you hollow with infill (which makes infill 100% useless).
August 13, 2020 at 9:12 am #228405
which slicer do you recommend for a starter resin set?
August 13, 2020 at 9:27 am #228407
You don’t really have a choice for slicers. Typically a resin printer has its own custom slicer (like Prusa), or they have worked with Chitubox to add support for their printer to that slicer. With the Phrozen Sonic Mini its the latter case, you will use Chitubox (as most resin printers do).
Unfortunately Chitubox is not the best slicer, or even comparable. Its buggy, it crashes a lot, and the support generation is sub-par (requiring a lot of manual intervention).
Fortunately there is a solution to (most) of those issues and that is to use Prusa Slicer. Pretend you have an SL1. Position your model, hollow it, drill holes, and generate supports. From there you can “Export the plate as STL including supports” and then load that STL into Chitubox and just slice it. I would change the Pad Wall Slope setting in PrusaSlicer from 90 to 45 though, this will make removing your prints 10x easier.
August 14, 2020 at 11:06 am #228591
August 27, 2020 at 12:46 am #230277William OakleyParticipant
Thanks for this! I couldn’t figure out why pieces were warping at the bottom.
Here is a new issue I’m seeing. I’m using an elegoo Mars, I hollowed out the wall segments as instructed, added a drainage hole, double checked supports, but after curing, every single piece has cracked along the bottom.
Curing too long?
August 27, 2020 at 1:26 am #230281
One of the purposes of this document (and this topic) is to have a good place for trouble shooting and knowledge gathering. I would love to help you figureout why your parts are splitting. If you could upload photos (and potentially email me your saved Chitubox project file, exactly as you have it, supports and all) I can do my best to help.
I will say that 100% of the time I have had cracking it has exclusively been because of the lack of drainage. Usually tiny little pockets that Chitubox hollows when it shouldn’t. I have cured the walls and floors for up to 8 hours in front of a UV lamp (I forget its curing sometimes….); and while they did yellow quite a bit, they never once cracked.
August 27, 2020 at 1:44 am #230284William OakleyParticipant
Much appreciated! What’s the best email address and I’ll get those over.
August 27, 2020 at 1:52 am #230286
In an effort to avoid scraping utilities: Look at my profile name (click on my profile, the part after the @) and add @gmail.com.
August 27, 2020 at 2:21 am #230287
Ok, I think I see the problem. This is something you have to watch out for, even more so with Chitubox.
In this model when you hollow it out, there are actually small pockets that hollow out that are not connected to the main section, this means that they are closed sections.
The most important ones are on the bottom (see Hollow1 and Hollow3). You can solve these by putting some horizontal holes (see Hollow2).
Unfortunately there are also some very tiny pockets that you can’t really drain (because you can’t really poke a hole there). (see Hollow4). For this I would try hollowing in PrusaSlicer instead, since it will try and not hollow out these tiny spaces.
If there are _any_ closed sections that are hollowed out, those sections cannot drain and the resin that gets trapped in them will eventually cause enough pressure to bust open any print.
- This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by Leto Atreides.
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