Creality Ender 3

[Matt]

By popularity we’ve finally purchased a Creality Ender 3. I was interested in other people’s opinions and tips and tricks for using Ender 3s. What do you use for your Profile settings, useful guides you’ve found or even made.

[jOLLYjUMPER]

Perfect, I’m looking at getting that printer. keen to see your review… also if you have a ‘settings’ file that would be great too.

[Jeff Zieleniuk]

I just bought an ender 3 pro last night. It should be here Tuesday. I did go ahead and grab some TL Smoother boards, so we will see how it goes. I’ll share my findings.

[Matt]

I’m testing with 2 printers so far and it is particularly simple printer to use. Most of the fussing about comes with manually getting the bed level every so often with the “as is” build plates. As for settings I so far have “Coasting” turned on with default settings. 212 initial temperature and 200 for the rest of the print. I also print the default raft for anything that doesn’t have a broad base.

[Matt]

Just a short update on this,; I’m working on printing with a 5mm Brim just to check the bed is level when printing and to combat against curling/lifting which seems to be working well.

[Gnomeinbrain]

Sam,

Any update on the Ender 3? Do you have profiles that work well? How does it compare to your MK3s?

I have an Original Prusa i3 MK3S. I bought a Ender 3 Pro for my son’s birthday. I’m sure he will be excited to print some models.

[Dave]

What really helped me is to put the TH3D firmware onto the Ender 3. It will allow for a manual mesh bed leveling which is a huge difference and helps to compensate for warped beds. It is not so hard to pull off, especially since the newer Ender 3’s should have a bootloader already. I still had to flash my Ender 3 with a bootloader. But it is not very hard.

Besides that I am still playing around to find good settings.

[Brian Etty]

I can get decent prints from my Ender 3. I just went with a Glass bed as the first build plate had over a 1 mm dip to the center and the second was beyond 1mm. I took a lot from 3dprintedtabletop for working with it.

Best recommendation is make sure your chassis is square and firm. There are a couple tricks on some youtube videos that helped me dial that in.

[Matt]

OK, So we did some firmware upgrades on the Enders. Had to buy an Arduino and some cables to blank the chip and load it with Marlin. Seems to be printing a lot better. and safer.

Depending on the print

212 initial temperature
200 printing temperature
0.1 resolution occasionally with a 1.6mm or 2mm wall thickness, and printing with a brim, raft or skirt depending on the print.

[thesiegetower]

I use Eryone 1.75 at 220 Nozzle and 65 Bed. with Brim. Works really well. Also I use supports that help with the stonework details in the WInterdale models. A little bit extra cleanup but well worth the extra time. No loose filaments hanging from rafters and such. 😀

*EDIT* Printer is an Ender 3 Pro 😛

• This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by thesiegetower.

[Robert Haddon]

I’ve been thinking about an Ender 3, so I have something to print on when my Prusa Mk2.5 is broken, which is nearly always. I don’t really want a second printer though…
Anyway, in my research so far, I’ve been reading that a glass bed is a must-have upgrade.

[Matt]

We’ve got some glass beds recently and they have been amazing for adhesion. Also printing with a brim.

[Fern Campbell]

The other must have (which I’m waiting on the arrival of) is a metal extruder assembly. The filament chews through the arm of the assembly really quickly 🙁

[Matt]

Has anyone had any luck with the Creawesome printing addon for Cura?

[Author]

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