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You can join them in meshmixer. It’s not hard to do. Put them together, click on each object and click Combine. You may want to enlarge them by .5 mm to allow overlap. To do that, click on the model, click t and change the size a small amount. After they are combined, hit T again to make sure they are the correct size.
If you find a high def picture on the internet, you can take it to office depot and have them print a poster of it… As long as it is not copyrighted. I have done this for Feywild and Abyss encounters.
For mini figures and monsters, my son has a Peopoly Moai. We have used the peopoly resin in grey, clear and white. We have started experimenting with mixing the Nex resin with the standard resin for a less brittle finish. We also have the Tough resin which we have not tested yet. The great thing about the Peopoly is it can use just about any SLA resin. They have settings on their website. The quality is great at a significantly less price than the Form 2. The resin is $55 – $60 per liter.
For terrain we use my Prusa MK3S and his Ender 3 Pro with Sunlu PLA Plus which was just on sale at Amazon for just over $12 per kg (Prime day).
- This reply was modified 6 months ago by Gnomeinbrain.
It’s Vallejo model color Red with a highlight of a lighter red and a home made dark brown/grey wash.
I had similar issues. I upped the outer layers to 4 and it resolved most of my issues. I use Slic3r.
Vallejo paints. It would not let me edit.
For terrain priming and base coat I use Rustoleum 2x ultracover paint + Primer. For detail I use vajello and army painter paints.
Army painter has a 50 paint kit on sale at amazon for less than $2 per color.
What profile/settings/filament do you use on your Original Prusa I3 MK3 to print these models?
The largest print I have done was the sorcerers tower. The entire print took approximately 1.5kg of material.
Load STL into Meshmixer. Use the “T” command. Adjust the Size X, Size Y, Size Z and click accept. You can click the Uniform Scaling button if you want one axis change to automatically update the other ones. Then simply export the model. Done.
Any update on the Ender 3? Do you have profiles that work well? How does it compare to your MK3s?
I have an Original Prusa i3 MK3S. I bought a Ender 3 Pro for my son’s birthday. I’m sure he will be excited to print some models.
For Terrain I use the .15 Speed or the .2 quality profiles depending on the detail of the terrain. I lower the “other layers” setting to 200-210 depending on the type of filament. Also, lower the extrusion multiplier to .97 or .95 depending on filament.
For terrain I usually use Sunlu PLA. Sunlu prints well at 200 or 205 and .97.
I tried to print them vertically, But it failed. I have split the model so it can be printed and then glued together.
It would not allow me to upload the STL directly.
- This reply was modified 10 months ago by Gnomeinbrain.
I had the same issue when I tried to print it. If you can thicken, I think that would help without detracting from the model.
Can you post the pic?
I use Vallejo Black Primer Acrylic. It works well, but you need a cheap airbrush. For paints, there is an army painter set of 50 colors on sale at Amazon for less than $100. Far exceeds Citadel paints for the price.