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I printed it straight from the base directory no supports. There is a little bit of filament looping you can see but otherwise had no problem with it. Not sure if the supports would have made a huge difference but some of it might have come out cleaner.
supplied scale for gaming. I am most likely going to print some lower scale ones, maybe even in resin as gifts at some point.
I started to do it with tiles. the base of the tiles I would do even at .3 then as it got into the detail I shrunk it. Especially for flat tiles if you take the layer height down you get more variation and less flat areas.
I think if you use basic geometric shapes for the inside on the large printer format there should be no need for supports as you have the outer-shell which would come up a the angles of the top pyramid. I have printing many roofs where they only start with the very outer edge and converge at the top and I think again for the large format it should not be a concern.
I assume your printing small form for the homestead, as on the large I finished it with no supports. The 1.4 version the 1.3 gave me nothing but trouble. Even ripped my magnetic bed off my Prusa mini on one attempt.
With something like this using the variable layer height feature can come in handy. So if you have a peak that you want be more defined as it comes to a point you can decrease the layer height on that part only and leave the rest of the model at like .2
I did find this to be a bit more annoying then some of the other pins from other products like the lighthouse. I am thinking I might snip the pins and drill them in to put some good magnets there to compensate.
Aye 1.4 if the fixed version.
I learned from a previous file if looks funky on the bottom go back to the slicer and look at the first layer.
Definitely interested in seeing the results. I am currently printing them at .20 Quality with some minor modifications.
Guard Shacks full and ruins.
Think small hut like you would find at a road check or something similar.
While I agree that cheaper hobby 3d printers can definitely achieve great prints, I have found that tuning and upgrade path to personally not be worth the frustration and annoyance. So I found the price difference to be well worth it for my Prusa.
So much so that I have given my friend my Ender 3, my nephew my Mono Mini, and Qidi tech sits idle until I can find it a home while I run my Prusa printers.
Your mileage may vary on your willingness to tinker and luck with your printer.
I was able to add in a single row of the slimmer roof tiles to compensate and it worked out very well. Can’t remember the actual tile designation,. I am still trying to figure out how I am going to paint it all lols.
The one thing the Inn does lack is stables. I am going to start noodling how to rectify that.
I added one strip of narrow to it and while it overhangs the gables it by mm’s really so I am going to stick with that solution.
It means adding the following:
2 of “S-Roof-Narrow-High-v1.2”
2 of “S-Roof-Narrow-Low-v1.3”
1 of APEX folder “I-Roof-High-5-V1.1”
You may get away with different version of the Apex that is slightly shorter but I found that one and went with it.
Ok so I have completed the final printing and unfortunately the gap is still there. At this point as in the picture the left side part of the building that sticks out has the roof ending at the wall line and not at the overhang gable line. ITs about 1/2 inch short. not sure what to do on that. Unless we have a piece that measures 1/2 inch in width or is like an E but 1/2 inch more in width.
Open to any suggestions
Link to full picture
I will have a better picture I think before the week is out and let you know. I am just wrapping up sections 7 and 8 which will complete the main roof. The only thing I can see contributing to a complete looking roof would be to have the left section of the Inn extend beyond the intended length of the raised gable lip (see right most gable with lifted lip). That would fill the gap but have that one section just overhang more then expectred.
I am also thinking if this gap is still present to print the 1/2 length Narrow pieces as a strip to fill the gap between the main building and the side part. I will let you know and provide some more pictures once complete.
I have been using a Anycubic Photon for the past year or so and its been great for me. I really like it for exceptional fine detail dressings. I actually printed a cooked turkey on a platter for putting on a table and it came out amazing. I was astonished at how it printed something that small.
One odd thing that happened to me on this was that my Nozzle was not completely tight and the overflow would eventually hit the part I was printing cause the layer to shit, but it would nock loose the extra filament so it wasn’t easily visible. So make sure you put your nozzle on when the printer is heated and its snug.
Those are all external on both ends.
The Castle Walls and Columns set has interior components that have connections on both sides. So i can make say a small keep with some rooms inside of it. I went looking for one of those pieces with a window and found there is a Door, Arrow Slit, Arch, Wall, but no window tile.