My Account 
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
HI there!
Not many prints are hollow as it would leave them quite fragile and susceptible to damage.
When you put an STL through your slicer you can select the infill % that will determine how much goes into it. We recommend for most prints having between 10-15% infill. I personally print with a 10% infill on the vast majority of my prints.
You would be surprised at the gaps that printers can bridge without stringing. I’ve found though that the extra time and filament is worth it compared to having prints that might break apart or fail due to being hollow or having too low of an infill.You could always try to print a piece hollow and see how it turns out, I’d love to hear how it goes
Oh No!
Could you share a screenshot of your slicer settings please? It’ll help us get to the bottom of it
Sometimes it can be the printer head speed that knocks smaller upright pieces if it moves too fast. Potentially its also something with the upright infill %Theres a few places online, the easiest probably being Ali Express depending on where in the world you are.
Search Rare Earth Magnets or Earth Magnets and you might have a bit more luck 🙂Cool idea!
You could also make it using Terrain Tinker with OpenLOCK parts and print it room by room or floor by floor.Glad to hear you got it to fit, we try to make sure the pieces will fit on most standard printers.
Happy Printing!Log cabins would be cool! I could be challenging to get the tile pieces to fit nicely with a minimum of gaps where the logs overlap but would be impressive to pull off!
Thanks for sharing your ideas with us, we really appreciate itHey thanks for your suggestion.
We’ve got some barricades on the way with Hagglethorn Hollow that will be made up of rubble and discarded furniture. The cool thing about barricades is they can be made up of just about anything. Great idea!Hey there,
Thanks for getting in touch about this. I’ve added it to our list of model updates and we’ll see what we can doHi Jeff,
We have a guide from our Rampage Dungeon Kickstarter that shows some of the basic tiles on our knowledgebse
For a full reference the OpenLOCK Tesselation Templates are what we use.
The best way to learn I think is by using Terrain Tinker if you haven’t been on there already. You can put together the pieces digitally and even combine them to export and print as larger pieces.Thanks for the suggestion, it’s one that would give lots of options for the Hagglethorn Bridge. Its going on our list of model updates for the future 🙂
If you’re after lights to go inside your buildings I’d look at some LED lights from eBay or Ali Express. Theyre fairly cheap and easy to use.
Hi Superjim,
We went with a bigger sized scale for the fountain like the kind you might see in a public park or gardens. Of course they can easily be scaled up or down as necessary. I did catch that the FDM supported fountain with water is smaller so thanks for bringing this up 🙂
Hey Donovan,
Thanks for your feedback, I’ve added your suggestion to our model update list.
When this model comes up for an update we’ll look into adding them inHi Stewart,
Thanks for your suggestion, we’re always open to ideas for new ranges of models.
I’ll add this one to our list of potential model ideas for the futureWelcome!
What are you guys printing/planning on working on?For me I’m printing some of the New Eden range for a DnD campaign set in the jungle!
I see not much gets past you!
Sometimes just before release we switch off the products to double-check everything before we launch 🙂Hey Dreadknot,
Thanks for getting in touch.
The complete versions of the models come from Johnny’s hand-sculpted designs that were high-resolution scanned. The ruined buildings however, were designed digitally with all the internal detail meaning that there isn’t a complete version of them. From their concept, they’ve been sliced and cut to allow for the different levels and angles to print successfully.
The main files in the download will be the best ones to print in FDM
