Forum Replies Created
May 16, 2022 at 8:21 am in reply to: New to printing – setup for first floor prints (ruined quarters) #333820
The Ruined Quarters pieces all print without the need for supports.
The bottom of the first level pieces are flat so that they can be printed straight onto the buildplate as is.
Typically when you open an STL into your slicer, however it is oriented is how it should be printed. (At least with Printable Scenery models)
Forgot to mention, you could change the infill to 10% for Hagglethorn Hollow buildings, theyre rather robust as they are and that will cut down your printing time a bit
I print regularly on the same printer. I’ve attached a screen grab of the printer settings I use, however they may need slight tweaking depending on your setup.
Environmental factors can mean your temperature and adhesion might change a little but start off printing something small and go from there as you learn.
Hope that helps and happy printing!
Attachments:April 14, 2022 at 8:58 am in reply to: If I missed the Kickstarter but buy Terrain Tinker + Clorehaven… #331082
No apology needed 🙂
When you purchase the model sets on Terrain Tinker it will link to your Printable Scenery account so you should have access to the Clorehaven files off the website here, if they come up as $0.00 then you know youve got them.
If it hasnt linked after your purchase send an email to [email protected] and they’ll sort you out.
I can see what you mean with the rear most 2 gun ports being next to eachother. I think because of the design of the decking you would either fit those 2 next to eachother or only have 1 port back there.
I will pass on your feedback for when we look at our list of model updates.
Thanks for sharing, your model looks great!
The standard scaling is 28mm which fits the vast majority of miniatures on the market.
Many DnD minis (including our own) are 28mm scaled but it depends on the company. Games Workshop for example are at 32mm these days.
If you were printing OpenLOCK tiles and wanted the standard 25mm square to be 32mm then you would increase it by 28%
I collect mainly for my homebrew DnD campaign and dont scale any of the pieces up, though it depends on your model collection
I’ve printed a few and they don’t need supports. One thing I would recommend to add variation is to heat and bend them to add new shapes.
It might be a bit difficult to bend the main tree trunks but the platforms, walkways and tree branches can all be bent by applying some heat (from a heat gun or even a lighter) and twisting them into new shapes.
This would give you some variety and make each one unique.
The Alien Jungle Clusters would also be great for Kashyyk as ground cover and you could print the single plants to add to the trees and other scenery pieces.
Hope thats given you some ideas to work with 🙂
The taller walls without beams are made using the pieces in the Top Locking Pin Cavities folder in the download. There are AH pieces in there that can be combined with A-wall sections to create the double-height walls you see in the Engineering bay.
Hope the clears it up.March 14, 2022 at 8:48 am in reply to: How to use the risers and secure upper /mid levels of dungeons? #328026
The risers are thicker pieces that you use instead of, rather than in addition to, the normal pieces. So you have the low risers which give a halfway step and full risers that are the height of a wall. The texture on top of the full risers is the floor for that level.
They arent desgined to have another piece sit on top like in your photo. As you identified you could use the tesselation templates to fill in a slight height difference.
A great way you could test it out is on TerrainTinker.com if you havent been on there already. You can put together the whole dungeon on it and itll give you want to print. Even if youve already got the pieces printed it can make planning out large dungeons way easier
Thanks for your suggestion! We dont currently but wouldnt rule it out for the future
Interesting problem you’re having there.
To help diagnose the problem, could you please post some screenshots of your slicer settings?
If its skipping a layer or two it could be due to the filament or the nozzle youre using but I always try to see if its a software issue first.
Is it happening at the same point on every print, even if theyre different designs? If so it could be an issue with the slicer or the printer.March 9, 2022 at 8:45 am in reply to: Anyone else a little disappointed about Hagglethorn? #327509
Thanks for taking the time to give us your feedback.
Hagglethorn was a different style of project for us being that the core buildings and range of it wern’t initially designed to be 3D printed, they were hand sculpted from putty and other materials. That hand-sculpted quality means that some shapes and interiors are a bit irregular but that is part of the charm of the range.
My personal favorites in the range are some of the smaller pieces like the animal enclosures, the garden beds, the well, and fountain. The ancient ruins are a regular feature in my DnD games too. I even printed off some of the garden gnomes at 300% for my garden!
For playability it depends on what game system you’re playing and how you like to game, I intend to use the ruined buildings for Mordheim soon as I think they”ve got some good spaces for model placement and theres all the walkways and rubble piles to use too.
Looks fantastic! Great work. You’ll have to enter this in the Arcane Brush 2022 later this year
It would be quite tricky to figure out the % based on the wall thickness, I’m no mathematician!
I use Chitubox for my slicer and it has a % based hollow feature which works quite well. It could also be that because the OpenLOCK clip is quite small, that with 2mm wall thickness there’s no space to hollow it. Try loading in a piece with more thickness and see what it says.
As resin printing is becoming more popular more of our pieces we’re providing pre-hollowed and pre-supported as they come out.
Your settings seem fine, i think those layer lines are just in the nature of printing slight differences in height with FDM. You could try 0.1mm layer height but that’s going to increase your print time significantly.
My suggestion would be to re-orient the tile to print on its side instead of flat. If you print with a brim or raft it should be stable enough. Whilst you might get some horizontal layer lines they’re much easier to sand down.
Hope that helps
They do require a little assembly. Those little holes you’ll find are the same diameter as standard PLA filament (1.75mm) so you can cut short lengths of spare filament to act as a pin to secure the two pieces together. I glue in a short piece of filament, then once the glue is dry trim it to the correct depth for the corresponding hole on the other piece, typically they only need to be 3-4mm in length. You’ll still need to glue the parts of the building together, which we recommend using super glue.
Hey thanks for sharing your idea.
We do have Terrain Tinker for assembling and designing OpenLOCK sets.
Its a huge help when it comes to planning out different buildings and knowing what pieces to print. ‘
For our other products, because they run in Kickstarter Campaigns where they’re purchased as a pledge rather than as individual products, they offer much better value and are grouped together in that way.
I see what you mean about being able to plan what sets to print to make a particular table and I’ll bring it up at our next development meeting
Hey sorry for the delayed response, you can get them free with the rampage or clorehaven trial packs
Thanks for your suggestion! It would be great to not have to think about the polarity when assembling magnetic pieces.
I’ll add your idea to our list of possible model updates when we next review OpenLOCK ports/clips.